Alcohol is often used in cosmetics to strengthen a formula’s preservative system or to solubilise ingredients. It can also provide a refreshing sensation upon application, reduce stickiness, or enhance the penetration of certain actives. It is important not to confuse fatty alcohols—which are not harmful to the skin at all—with other types of alcohol that can be damaging. Fatty alcohols are mainly used as emollients or thickening agents in skincare products. They are non-irritating and can even be beneficial for dry skin. You can find them in Martine Skin products (INCI: behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, etc.). In contrast, numerous studies show that the presence of “bad” alcohols in skincare products can disrupt the skin barrier by stripping it of essential substances and worsen oily skin conditions. They may also accelerate skin aging and are easily replaceable in formulations, which is why their use is no longer necessary in cosmetics. They can be found in INCI lists under names such as Alcohol and Alcohol Denat. But you won’t find them in Martine Skin products.

Benzophenone is a masking agent used to reduce or inhibit the odour or taste of a product. It is also a stabilising agent and provides protection against the effects of UV light on cosmetic formulations. Benzophenone is responsible for many allergic reactions and is generally no longer used in cosmetics. It is also considered an endocrine disruptor and was the subject of a recommendation to limit its use in cosmetics by the French Agency for Health Safety of Health Products in 2011. In addition, benzophenone has been accused of impacting coral health in tropical regions and contributing to coral reef degradation. You can find it in INCI lists under names such as Benzophenone-1 and Benzophenone-3. But you won’t find it in Martine Skin products.

Chlorphenesin is a well-known preservative and antimicrobial agent. It helps prevent the growth of bacteria in cosmetic products. In addition to being potentially irritating, this powerful chemical biocide is produced through a manufacturing process that is not very eco-friendly. For this reason, you won’t find it in your Martine Skin products.

Essential oils are regularly used in cosmetics as they form the basis of certain natural fragrances. However, they can be allergenic. Due to the complex nature of plant extracts, their tolerance and safety are more difficult to assess. Essential oils are also not recommended for pregnant women and children under three years old due to their potential endocrine-disrupting effects. Some essential oils are also known to have neurotoxic, abortive, and hepatotoxic properties.

Microplastics have been on the long list of controversial and closely monitored ingredients by authorities for several years. These plastic particles are considered “microplastics” when their size is 5 millimetres or smaller. They are used in cosmetics for several reasons, including cost efficiency, as they are inexpensive synthetic raw materials, but also to enhance sensory feel, similar to silicones, which are also plastic-based materials. They are not primarily controversial for health reasons, as short-term use of cosmetics containing microplastics is not considered harmful to humans. At present, no studies have proven that long-term use of these products is truly dangerous. However, they are concerning for the environment, as once rinsed off and released into wastewater systems, they spread into natural aquatic environments and pose a threat to biodiversity. They are ingested by fish and can also end up in drinking water, potentially becoming a public health issue. For all these reasons, you won’t find them in Martine Skin products.

Nanoparticles are nano-objects with a diameter of less than 100 nanometres. They are widely used in cosmetics but may potentially represent a risk to the body. Indeed, they can cause skin roughness and dryness, as well as affect the activity of a protein that helps eliminate toxic substances from the skin. In addition, the very small size of nanoparticles allows them to pass through physiological barriers such as the skin or lungs. Traces can then be found in the blood or urine. Titanium nanoparticles may also alter the blood–brain barrier, which is essential for protecting the brain, or pass through the intestinal barrier and reach various organs such as the liver or heart. Due to all these potential health risks, you won’t find nanoparticles in Martine Skin products.

Parabens are synthetic preservatives. They have been used for over 80 years in cosmetics, pharmaceutical products, and food because they prevent the growth of microorganisms such as bacteria and mould. They help extend the shelf life of cosmetic products and ensure their proper preservation. Despite their high effectiveness, they have been questioned since 2004 following several studies suggesting potential carcinogenic effects. They are also now suspected of acting as endocrine disruptors by mimicking certain hormones in the body. In INCI lists, they can be identified by ingredients with the prefixes methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, or butyl-. You won’t find them in Martine Skin products.

Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and polypropylene glycols (PPGs) are used to make active ingredients, essential oils, and fragrances in cosmetics more soluble. They also help thicken product textures and have hydrating properties. They are not considered harmful to health, but their manufacturing process is problematic, as it involves the use of ethylene oxide—a toxic and flammable gas—along with high energy consumption (high temperatures and pressure). They are also poorly biodegradable and tend to accumulate in the environment. You can find them in INCI lists under names such as PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-150 Distearate, as well as ingredients containing PEG- or PPG-. But you won’t find them in Martine Skin products.

Phenoxyethanol is a synthetic preservative. It prevents the growth of microbes such as bacteria and mould in cosmetic products. While highly effective, it does not distinguish between harmful bacteria (bad for the skin) and beneficial ones (which protect the skin’s surface), making it relatively harsh on the epidermis. Due to its toxicity at high concentrations, it is restricted to a maximum of 1% in the European Union. Below this level, it is fully authorised and its effectiveness is proven. However, the ANSM (French National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products) has raised concerns about its potential links to fertility and therefore recommends that pregnant and breastfeeding women avoid it. You won’t find it in Martine Skin products.

Phthalates are derivatives of phthalic acid. They are mainly used to make plastics more flexible and to help fragrances last longer in certain products. Most phthalates were banned from cosmetic formulations by the European Union in 2013, as their affinity with fats and alcohol means they can migrate from plastic packaging into the product. Only diethyl phthalate is still permitted today. Phthalates are suspected of being endocrine disruptors and have been associated with cancer and fertility issues. They may also interfere with proper fetal development. For all these reasons, you won’t find them in Martine Skin products.

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A. It is particularly effective in fighting oxidative stress and premature skin aging. However, it can be irritating and drying, especially for sensitive and atopic skin. In practice, retinol exfoliates the surface of the epidermis, stimulates the production of elastin and collagen, and regulates the activity of melanocytes responsible for hyperpigmentation. The most common side effects after using retinol-based products are redness, itching, or even mild burning sensations. For this reason, we have chosen to exclude it from our formulations to avoid the risk of irritating more sensitive skin. It is also strongly discouraged for pregnant and breastfeeding women. You won’t find it in Martine Skin formulas.

Silicones are a family of ingredients synthetically derived from silicon, a mineral compound originating from silica, the main component of sand. They are highly valued for their sensory properties: they create non-greasy, non-sticky textures with a soft, velvety feel. In makeup, they are used to blur imperfections and extend wear. In skincare, they provide a mattifying effect and help preserve skin hydration. In haircare, they help detangle, smooth, and protect the hair fibre. By forming a thin layer on the skin, silicones act as a protective barrier but can also prevent it from breathing. Some believe they may worsen certain skin concerns, trap bacteria in pores, and interfere with cell renewal. In addition, silicones are poorly biodegradable and tend to accumulate in the environment, particularly through wastewater. They can be replaced in cosmetics by various natural alternatives such as coconut alkane (derived from coconut), undecane, or tridecane (derived from castor oil). You can find silicones in INCI lists under names such as Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Polysilicone-11, as well as ingredients ending in -thicone, -thiconol, -silane, or -siloxane. But you won’t find them in Martine Skin formulas.

EDTA salts are synthetic viscosity control agents used in cosmetic products. They also act as chelating agents, meaning they bind and neutralise metal ions (heavy metals) that could affect a formula’s stability or appearance. In addition to being potentially irritating at high concentrations, EDTA salts are harmful to the environment because they are poorly biodegradable and can carry heavy metals. They are not effectively removed by wastewater treatment plants and can therefore end up in rivers, with unknown long-term impact. They are also banned in organic cosmetics. You will usually find them listed in INCI as Disodium EDTA, Tetrasodium EDTA, or Trisodium EDTA. You won’t find them in Martine Skin formulas.

Talc is a mineral-based powder that can serve several functions in cosmetics: it can be used as an abrasive agent, an absorbent, and also to provide a soft feel. Although no study has definitively proven it to date, it is currently suspected of being linked to ovarian cancer and lung damage. Talc is particularly controversial in the United States and Canada. Given the concerns surrounding it, we have chosen not to include it in Martine Skin formulas.

Triclosan is a synthetic preservative. It is a biocide, meaning it is a substance that kills bacteria. It was widely used for over 40 years but is now recognised as an endocrine disruptor. Indeed, it may affect not only estrogen hormones but also thyroid function. As a result, it is being used less and less in cosmetics due to its harmful effects on health, especially when used in sprays that can be inhaled. At high concentrations, triclosan is very effective at killing microorganisms such as bacteria. It can still be found today in certain soaps, deodorants, toothpastes, and even some nail products. You won’t find it in your Martine Skin formulas.