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THE MARTINE GLOSSARY

After several years spent analysing the cosmetics industry, Gaëlle and her team in Belgium decided to create Martine Skin from scratch. The goal: to develop a range of effective and safe skincare products, with an approach to cosmetics that is simplified and understandable for everyone. Here is a glossary bringing together essential information to help you learn more and understand Martine Skin products.

A

HEXANOYL DIPEPTIDE-3 NORLEUCINE ACETATE

Hexanoyl dipeptide-3 norleucine acetate is a synthetic tripeptide (a group of three amino acid molecules) that boosts cell renewal. In powder form, it induces a gentle exfoliation that supports desquamation (the removal of the upper layers of the epidermis). As a result, hexanoyl acetate helps the skin regain its radiance and address signs of aging such as wrinkles and fine lines. You can find it in L’After.

CITRIC ACID

Citric acid is part of the AHA family. It is derived from citrus fruits, mainly lime, orange, lemon, and grapefruit. It is highly effective on the skin as it is rich in vitamin C and antioxidants. A natural preservative, citric acid offers many benefits for all skin types. It is mainly used as an exfoliating agent, as its acidic nature promotes exfoliation and skin purification. Its use helps remove dead skin cells. In addition, citric acid helps cleanse pores and soften the skin. Citric acid can also help regulate the skin’s pH level, supporting the restoration of the skin barrier. You can find citric acid in La Crème, L’Acide, L’After, La Grasse Night, and Le Nettoyant.

HYALURONIC ACID

Hyaluronic acid is a substance naturally present in the skin. It is known for its humectant power: it can attract and retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water, giving the skin a plump and supple appearance. It is beneficial for all skin types, but especially for Martin·e with dry and/or dehydrated skin. Hyaluronic acid is particularly useful in slowing down skin aging. Indeed, as we age, the skin loses its ability to regulate its water balance, leading to a loss of firmness and elasticity. Hyaluronic acid is closely related to sodium hyaluronate, the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, which has the same properties but is absorbed even more easily by the skin thanks to its lower molecular weight. Sodium hyaluronate acts as a lubricant that hydrates the various tissues of the body. You can find hyaluronic acid in the form of sodium hyaluronate in La Crème and Le Nettoyant.

LACTOBIONIC ACID

Lactobionic acid is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA). It is highly hygroscopic, meaning it can retain large amounts of water. It therefore has excellent long-term hydrating properties. When applied to the skin, it exfoliates dead cells and tightens pores. This desquamation helps other skincare products penetrate deeper into the layers of the epidermis while making the skin more even and radiant. Known for their hydrating and soothing effects, PHAs are considered gentler than AHAs (due to their higher molecular weight) and are suitable for more sensitive skin. You can find lactobionic acid in L’Acide.

LEVULINIC ACID

Levulinic acid is of natural origin and acts as a gentle preservative in cosmetic formulations. This organic acid, derived from the degradation of cellulose (one of the structural components of plant cells and tissues), is known for its antibacterial properties without altering the formula in which it is used: its pH, colour, or natural ingredients.

POLYGLUTAMIC ACID

Polyglutamic acid is a natural active ingredient derived from the polymerisation of glutamic acid. It is extracted from the fermentation of soybeans. This multifunctional peptide is known to retain four to five times more water than hyaluronic acid. It works well in combination with vitamin C and is highly effective on dry to dehydrated skin. Previously used in medicine to support wound healing, polyglutamic acid also acts on immediate hydration and long-term water retention in the tissues. It helps fight signs of aging by giving the skin a plumped and smoothed appearance.

AHA, PHA & BHA

AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids), PHAs (poly-hydroxy acids), and BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids) are chemical exfoliants used to make the skin smoother and more radiant. Each of these acids is better suited to certain skin types than others. Here’s a clearer breakdown for you, Martin·e: AHAs are water-soluble acids and are recommended for dry skin due to their surface exfoliating action while helping maintain skin hydration. Several AHAs are used in Martine Skin products: Lactic acid is obtained through the fermentation of milk and certain fruits. It has keratolytic properties (meaning it can dissolve keratin, the main protein in the outer layer of the epidermis) and helps improve the skin’s natural moisturizing factor. It is slightly less abrasive than glycolic acid and therefore better tolerated by the skin. It is found in Le Nettoyant, L’Acide, L’After, and L’Enzyme. Glycolic acid (derived from sugar cane) has a strong exfoliating effect on the upper layers of the epidermis as well as astringent and pore-cleansing properties. By stimulating cell renewal and hyaluronic acid synthesis, it also has a hydrating effect. It is found in Le Nettoyant, L’After, and L’Enzyme. Mandelic acid, derived from almonds, stimulates sebum production. It is therefore particularly interesting for dry skin. It is found in Le Nettoyant and L’Enzyme. PHAs are ideal for sensitive and reactive skin that requires gentle exfoliation. Due to their larger molecular size compared to AHAs and BHAs, they penetrate less deeply into the skin and are better suited for atopic skin. They are also known for their hydrating and soothing effects. The three main PHAs used in cosmetics are gluconolactone (an antioxidant that effectively fights inflammation and can be found in our night serum L’After), galactose, known to stimulate collagen production, and lactobionic acid, which has hydrating properties. Unlike AHAs, BHAs act on the skin’s surface as well as inside the pores. The main BHA used in skincare is salicylic acid. This active ingredient is particularly beneficial for oily, blemish-prone skin due to its antiseptic action, which helps prevent the growth and spread of fungi, viruses, and bacteria. It also has keratolytic and purifying effects, helping to remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface.

ALLANTOIN

Allantoin is an active ingredient with regenerating and healing properties. It helps maintain the skin’s hydrolipidic film, leaving the skin soft and supple. Its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties make it ideal for calming skin irritation. It is suitable for all skin types, especially sensitive, irritated skin, skin damaged by sun exposure, oily skin, and blemish-prone skin. Allantoin also has a trophic cellular action, meaning it supports healthy cell growth. This active ingredient has an excellent toxicological profile, as it is neither irritating nor toxic. It also helps regenerate damaged tissues and speeds up skin healing. You can find allantoin in La Grasse Night.

ALOE VERA

Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) is a plant from the lily family. Its pulp has been used for its medicinal and cosmetic properties for many years. Rich in trace elements, vitamins, and amino acids, aloe vera is excellent for the skin. Its hydrating power helps compensate for the natural evaporation of water from the skin and helps maintain skin moisture. With its soothing function, aloe vera relieves irritation and itching. It also has a repairing effect on redness-prone skin as well as a purifying action that helps reduce imperfections and cleanse the skin. In addition, aloe vera has properties that help prevent hyperpigmentation. By forming a protective film on the epidermis, it helps shield the skin from external aggressors. You can find aloe vera in La Source and L’After Show.

STARCH

PUDDING-TEXTURE GELLING AGENT Starch gives the formula its bouncy, cushion-like gel texture, making it highly sensory. It provides a soft, velvety, and comfortable feel, turning makeup removal into a true moment of pleasure.

ANTIOXYDANT

An antioxidant is a barrier molecule whose role is to inhibit (reduce or prevent) reactions of a product when it comes into contact with oxygen, thereby preventing oxidation and rancidity. In cosmetics, antioxidants are used for two main reasons: to help the skin fight free radicals by minimising cell oxidation that leads to premature skin aging, and to protect product formulas from oxidation. Did you know, Martin·e, that there are many different antioxidant agents? Their origin can be plant-based, synthetic, or biotechnological. In addition, all plant oils contain antioxidants. Certain vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C (ascorbic acid and ingredients containing the word “ascorbate”), and vitamin E (including tocopherol and ingredients containing the word “tocopheryl”) have strong antioxidant properties.

ARNICA

Arnica, more precisely the species Arnica montana, is one of the most widely used plants in the history of medicine. Very common in phytotherapy and homeopathy, it is known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and analgesic properties. Often applied to bruises, contusions, or muscle pain, in cosmetics it helps comfort irritated and damaged skin.

B

BAKUCHIOL

Bakuchiol is an active ingredient extracted from the seeds of Babchi or Bakuchi, a plant native to the Himalayan region. Widely used in Ayurvedic medicine to treat skin conditions, this ingredient is increasingly popular in Europe as a natural, vegan, and gentle alternative to retinol. Known for stimulating cell renewal, as well as for its sebum-regulating and anti-inflammatory properties, bakuchiol helps reduce the appearance of imperfections and also works on acne-prone skin. Like retinol, it helps visibly reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, making it a high-quality anti-aging ally. Bakuchiol therefore offers similar benefits to retinol while being non-irritating, non-photosensitising, and without side effects on sensitive skin. It can be used by pregnant and breastfeeding women, unlike retinol. You can find bakuchiol in the mask La Cure.

SHEA BUTTER

Shea butter is a natural product derived from a tree in Africa, Butyrospermum parkii. This butter is particularly recommended for very dry skin due to its hydrating and nourishing properties. It is also soothing and has anti-aging benefits. Naturally rich in vitamins A, D, E, and F, shea butter hydrates the skin and helps keep it soft and silky. It is quickly absorbed by the skin, which it nourishes deeply and long-lastingly. The vitamin A it contains helps stimulate collagen production, which is responsible for skin elasticity. It also has a healing effect on minor skin injuries and anti-inflammatory properties. Shea butter is effective in protecting the skin from external aggressors and in helping to address skin concerns such as itching, eczema, and psoriasis. The vitamin E it contains gives it antioxidant properties, helping to combat skin aging. You can find shea butter in Le Bain and La Grasse Night.

MANGO BUTTER

Mango butter is a plant-based butter obtained through cold pressing the seeds found inside the mango kernel. This very rich butter is an emollient packed with vitamins A, B, and E. It is known for its nourishing, softening, and antioxidant properties. It is often used in haircare and after-sun products because it helps support skin regeneration. You can find mango butter in Le Bain and La Cure.

BIODINE

NOURISHING & RE-LIPIDISING COMPLEX Biodine is a complex of plant lipids (macadamia, soy, safflower), phospholipids, and squalane. It helps rebalance the skin’s hydrolipidic film, prevents dehydration, and leaves the skin soft, nourished, and comfortable after cleansing.

BIOFERM DRAGON BLOOD

Bioferm Dragon Blood is the sap derived from the dragon tree (“Dragon Blood Tree”). This plant is known for its skin-regenerating and soothing properties. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory, healing, and free radical–protective effects, it helps support skin health and maintain a youthful appearance. You can find Bioferm Dragon Blood in L’After Show.

C

CHONDRUS CRISPUS

Chondrus crispus is a red algae found on Mediterranean, Atlantic, and North American coasts, and its role is to act as a texturising agent. It is also known as “Irish moss.” It is a fine powder rich in trace elements and micronutrients. Rich in fatty acids, it helps preserve the skin’s hydrolipidic film for natural and optimal hydration. It is considered a natural silicone, as it gives the skin a silky feel. You can find Chondrus crispus powder in Le Nettoyant.

COLLAGEN

Collagen is a naturally occurring protein used in the cosmetics industry for decades. It is the main component of connective tissue and the most abundant protein in the body. It contributes to skin firmness, strength, and elasticity—all things we love, Martin·e. Collagen production decreases from the age of 25 due to the drying out of fibroblasts that produce it, and the first signs of skin aging then appear on the face. Improving collagen production strengthens the skin while helping it retain moisture more effectively. Collagen-boosting ingredients are mainly exfoliating or keratolytic actives such as retinol, vitamin C, and glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, or citric acids. These actives strongly stimulate fibroblasts, thereby increasing collagen synthesis and production. To preserve your skin’s youthfulness, Martin·e, use L’After and L’Acide in your routine: they are rich in collagen boosters and will help you maintain radiant, plump-looking skin.

D

DIGLYCERIN

HYDRATING ACTIVE & CLEANSING ENHANCER Diglycerin is a powerful hydrating agent that improves the contact between the skin and the makeup remover. It helps remove makeup and impurities more easily while reducing the feeling of tightness after rinsing.

E

CORNFLOWER WATER

SOOTHING & CALMING WATER Especially appreciated by sensitive and reactive skin, cornflower water helps soothe feelings of discomfort and calm redness. It provides an immediate sensation of freshness and softness during makeup removal.

ROSE WATER

NOURISHING & RADIANCE WATER Known for its softening and revitalising properties, rose water helps maintain skin hydration while providing comfort and freshness. It contributes to a more luminous complexion and leaves the skin soft, supple, and delicately scented.

POMEGRANATE ENZYMES

Present in INCI lists under the name LACTOBACILLUS/PUNICA GRANATUM FRUIT FERMENT EXTRACT, this ingredient is obtained by fermenting pomegranate pulp using a “good” bacterium called Lactobacillus lactis. Pomegranate enzyme is a good alternative to AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) for gently yet deeply exfoliating the skin. It helps accelerate the skin’s natural cell renewal process, removes dead skin cells, and reduces impurities.

RADISH ENZYMES

Present in INCI lists under the name LEUCONOSTOC/RADISH ROOT FERMENT FILTRATE, this ingredient is obtained through the fermentation of radish roots. Several roles are attributed to this enzyme, which is often found in organic skincare products. During the fermentation of radish by a microorganism called Leuconostoc kimchii, a peptide with astringent and cleansing properties is produced. It helps reduce the presence and growth of bacteria on the skin, thereby decreasing imperfections and sebum production and supporting acne-prone skin. Known as a good conditioning agent, radish root enzyme is also used as a gentle preservative, helping to replace other potentially harsher or more irritating preservatives.

GRAPEFRUIT EXTRACT

NATURAL pH BALANCER Used to naturally adjust the formula’s pH, grapefruit extract helps maintain the skin’s balance. It contributes to better product tolerance and a healthy, fresh skin feel.

F

HIBISCUS FLOWER EXTRACT

Hibiscus flower extract reduces the greasy appearance of hair while strengthening it. It makes hair easier to style, leaving it softer, silkier, and shinier. Gentler and more effective than fruit acids, hibiscus deeply hydrates, strengthens the roots, and stimulates hair follicles. Its amino acids nourish the scalp, help control excess sebum, and unclog pores.

G

GINSENG

Highly concentrated in ginsenosides, ginseng extract is an active ingredient that helps firm and tone the skin. It is rich in vitamin B (B1, B2, and B12), vitamin C, and trace elements. It stimulates skin cells to help rebalance them and reduce their natural stress, thereby contributing to the maintenance of youthful-looking skin. Applying a product containing ginseng helps promote microcirculation and improves skin radiance. Ginseng also helps protect the skin from external aggressors and UV-related damage, thereby delaying premature skin aging.

GLUCONOLACTONE

Gluconolactone is a derivative of gluconic acid that appears as a white powder. It belongs to the PHA family, which is gentler on the skin than AHAs. It is considered less exfoliating and more hydrating. This multifunctional organic acid is used as a smoothing and pore-reducing agent, as well as an antioxidant. It improves skin quality by tightening the cells of the epidermis, thereby reducing the appearance of pores and fine lines. Gluconolactone has a lower irritation potential than most other acids and is less irritating, making it an ideal ally for sensitive skin. You can find gluconolactone in L’After.

VEGETABLE GLYCERIN

Vegetable glycerin is a highly effective natural humectant and emollient. Obtained through the saponification of various plant oils, its hydrating action works on two levels. Thanks to its hygroscopic properties, it attracts and retains water within skin cells, helping to limit dehydration. It therefore reduces water loss and improves overall skin hydration levels. You can find vegetable glycerin in Le Before and Le Nettoyant.

XANTHAN GUM

Xanthan gum is a natural thickening and gelling texture agent. It has the advantage of being GMO-free and free from allergens, making it well tolerated by many skin types. It makes formulations more glideable on the skin for optimal comfort during application. Made from sugar molecules, it is non-toxic for both humans and the environment. You can find xanthan gum in L’Acide, L’After, and Le Nettoyant

H

SWEET ALMOND OIL

Sweet almond oil is known for its softening, nourishing, and soothing properties. It is suitable for all skin types. Appreciated for its richness in unsaturated fatty acids and vitamins A, B, D, and E, it is non-comedogenic and quickly absorbs into the skin. It helps calm itching and skin irritation and contributes to improving skin elasticity thanks to its vitamin A content. Vitamins B, D, and E help accelerate cellular repair. You can find sweet almond oil in Le Nettoyant and in L’After Show.

COCONUT OIL

Coconut oil is a plant oil composed of more than 90% saturated fatty acids, obtained by pressing the flesh of the coconut. Widely used in cosmetics in haircare routines and skincare, it hydrates and repairs hair fibres and acts as a powerful moisturising and softening agent for the skin. Ideal for mature skin, coconut oil helps restore elasticity and tone. You can find coconut oil in L’After.

JOJOBA OIL

Martine loves jojoba oil for its many benefits: it is nourishing, hydrating, balancing, softening, soothing, and regenerating. It can be used for all skin types. Since its composition is similar to human sebum, especially that of the face, it does not leave a greasy film on the skin when applied—perfect, Martin·e! This oil also has the advantage of excellent shelf stability. In addition, it helps regulate the skin’s pH by neutralising the effects of limescale found in bath or shower water, which can dry out the skin. Thanks to its antioxidant activity, jojoba oil helps delay the signs of skin aging. Its unsaponifiable content also supports dermal cells in producing collagen, making the skin appear plumper, smoother, and more youthful. Finally, jojoba oil soothes sensitive and irritated skin thanks to its anti-inflammatory effect, and its high wax ester content helps repair skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. You can find jojoba oil in Le Before and in L’After Show.

SUNFLOWER OIL

Sunflower oil is a plant oil obtained by pressing sunflower seeds. It is recognised as a very good skin-repairing agent with nourishing properties. Very rich in omega-6, which helps reduce water evaporation in tissues, it improves moisture retention in the skin. Sunflower oil also contains vitamin E, known for its antioxidant properties. It is particularly appreciated by Martin·e with dry, mature, or irritated skin.

HUMECTANT

In cosmetics, the term humectant does not refer to a specific ingredient but to a group of ingredients capable of maintaining the skin’s water content, Martin·e. Able to penetrate the surface cells of the epidermis, humectants attract and retain water like magnets thanks to their hygroscopic properties. In short, they act like tiny sponges, helping to maintain the skin’s hydration balance.

HYDRATION VS. NOURISHMENT

The terms hydration and nourishment come up a lot in cosmetics, and Martin·e, you’ve definitely got that right! Some people confuse hydrating and nourishing properties, but the two are actually very different. Let’s break it down for you, Martin·e: Hydration refers to the amount of water present in the skin: to hydrate is to provide water to the skin. All skin types, from the driest to the oiliest, need hydration. Water makes up 70% of the skin and is stored in the dermis. It circulates to the upper layer of the epidermis through channels called aquaporins. When the upper layer of the epidermis is damaged, the water from the dermis evaporates. As a result, when the skin is dehydrated, it may appear dull, show small fine lines, and feel tight and uncomfortable. Skin dehydration can be caused by many factors such as UV exposure, pollution, wind and cold weather, alcohol and tobacco consumption, or fatigue. At the same time, cosmetics containing overly harsh or chemical ingredients can also increase skin dehydration. Nourishment, on the other hand, refers to the amount of lipids (fatty acid molecules) present in the skin. Together with water, lipids (sebum) form the skin’s hydrolipidic film. When skin is dry, this protective film is damaged and sebum production is insufficient, meaning the skin needs nourishment. When sebum production decreases, water evaporates more quickly from the epidermis and the hydrolipidic film is no longer able to properly protect the skin from dehydration. As a result, the skin becomes weakened and dry. A lack of nourishment is often visible through redness and other skin concerns (cracks, dry patches, etc.), as well as a constant feeling of tightness.

MUSTARD SEED OIL

Mustard seed oil is a remarkable ingredient for hair care, offering a wide range of benefits. Rich in fatty acids such as erucic acid, alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3), and allyl isothiocyanate, it helps improve and stimulate blood circulation in the scalp. By enhancing blood flow to hair follicles, it helps reduce hair loss and promotes hair growth. Erucic acid coats and envelops each hair strand, adding strength and thickness without leaving a heavy feeling. In addition, its purifying properties help soothe irritation, contributing to a healthy scalp and stronger hair. It is also rich in zinc, beta-carotene, and vitamins A and E—a nourishing combination that deeply feeds the hair while adding volume and density to fine hair.

MACADAMIA NUT OIL

Macadamia nut oil helps care for and nourish irritated or dry scalps, hydrates dry and brittle hair, and helps rebuild the hair fibre for a healthy appearance. It also provides a protective action after hair colouring.

L

LITHOTHAMNE

Lithothamnium is a red marine algae belonging to the Corallinaceae family. It is mainly found in the cold, deep waters of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. This algae is distinguished by its ability to accumulate marine minerals and trace elements from seawater, giving it a rich nutritional profile. Lithothamnium is also a natural source of calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, potassium, and many other minerals and trace elements essential for skin health. Thanks to its remineralising, hydrating, and soothing properties, it helps deeply nourish the skin, maintain its water balance, and strengthen its natural protective barrier. It also calms skin irritation and redness, providing a sense of comfort and relief. You can find Lithothamnium in La Source.

LAMINARIA OCHROLEUCA

Laminaria ochroleuca is an algae found on European coasts and along the Atlantic Ocean. It soothes the skin and provides protection. It is rich in lipid compounds including alanine, serine, phosphatidylcholine, and vitamins A and E. It acts as a protective and calming agent for the skin. It helps limit skin inflammation by boosting the skin’s immune defenses. You can find Laminaria ochroleuca extract in La Grasse Night.

INCI LIST

The INCI list is a nomenclature used for cosmetic products and has been mandatory since 1999. You can find it on the back of your products: sometimes on the primary packaging and in all cases on Martine secondary packaging. It is defined based on the “QQF” (Qualitative and Quantitative Formula) and indicates ingredient percentages when necessary. Once a product formula is defined, the INCI list is created: ingredient by ingredient, from the most concentrated to the least concentrated. This means that the first ingredient on the list is the most concentrated. Ingredients present at less than 1% in the formula can be listed in any order. If several ingredients are present at less than 1% in the formula, they can be listed in any order if the brand chooses.

BLUE LOTUS

Blue lotus flower, also known by its scientific name Nymphaea caerulea, is an aquatic plant native to Egypt. It is known for its hydrating and softening properties. Rich in antioxidants such as flavonoids, it helps protect the skin against external aggressors (free radicals, pollution, UV rays, etc.), contributing to healthier and more youthful-looking skin. Its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties help calm skin irritation, redness, and inflammation, while some of its compounds may also help brighten the complexion and visibly reduce pigmentation spots. Blue lotus flower also improves blood circulation, promoting better oxygenation and nourishment of skin cells. You can find blue lotus flower in La Lotion.

SACRED LOTUS

The sacred lotus leaf is cultivated in Asia, more specifically in Bali. Its two main properties are skin regeneration and soothing effects, making it perfectly suitable for sensitive skin. It also protects the skin against damage caused by free radicals, such as pollution and UV rays, contributing to healthier and more youthful-looking skin. It can also be suitable for combination skin or acne-prone skin thanks to its purifying properties, which help reduce imperfections. You can find sacred lotus leaf in La Lotion.

N

NIACINAMIDE

Also known as vitamin B3 or vitamin PP, niacinamide interacts with substances naturally present in the skin to help reduce enlarged pores, even out skin tone, strengthen the skin barrier, smooth fine lines and wrinkles, and restore radiance. It helps reduce the impact of environmental pollution on the skin by improving its natural protection. Gentle on the skin, niacinamide is generally well tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive skin. It also supports epidermal cell renewal and helps maintain hydration by stimulating the production of ceramides. These strengthen the skin and help reduce dryness and sensitivity. It has the advantage of combining well with other hydrating ingredients such as glycerin, plant oils, cholesterol, sodium PCA, and sodium hyaluronate. You can find niacinamide in Le Before, Le Nettoyant, and La Cure.

O

WHITE NETTLE EXTRACT

White nettle extract is a remarkable natural purifying ingredient that removes impurities and excess sebum from the scalp. Its humectant and emollient properties help improve the absorption of nutrients from haircare products, thereby reducing itchiness. In addition, it strengthens and treats the hair while offering anti-inflammatory benefits that soothe scalp irritation. Its purifying and balancing properties help maintain a healthy, nourished scalp.

P

PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-5

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 is a peptide made up of three chains of amino acids linked together by fatty acids. This tripeptide can penetrate the epidermis and even reach deeper into the dermis. As we age, Martin·e, our skin produces less collagen, even though collagen is essential for maintaining youthful and healthy skin. By acting on specific skin receptors, palmitoyl tripeptide-5 stimulates collagen production and promotes the growth of healthy tissue. It also interacts with hyaluronic acid and the skin’s elastin production system to help firm the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. You can find Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 in Le Bain.

PERFUMES: SYNTHETIC VS. NATURAL

Most perfumes are the result of chemical reactions using synthetic molecules. There are two types of synthetic ingredients: artificial ones and nature-identical ones. The difference between these two lies in their origin: the first are entirely invented, while the second are reproduced identically from a substance found in nature. Synthetic molecules are widely used because they allow for a great variety of scents. Moreover, some natural fragrances are impossible to extract directly from nature and therefore need to be recreated through synthesis. Synthetic perfume formulations are also more stable and generally less expensive than natural ones. However, synthetic perfumes can contain phthalates, which are used to fix the scent and some of which are recognised as endocrine disruptors. The choice between one or the other depends primarily on a company’s values. At Martine Skin, we have chosen to work exclusively with naturally derived fragrances, without using essential oils in our product formulations.

PEPTIDES

Peptides are a must-have when it comes to anti-aging, Martin·e! They are short chains of amino acids that help build proteins such as collagen, elastin, and keratin. These proteins are responsible for the texture, strength, and resilience of our skin. Peptides therefore help maintain skin that is firmer, plumper, and smoother, with less visible wrinkles. They also strengthen the skin, making it more resilient and revitalised. They are essential in the fight against skin aging.

ENDOCRINE DISRUPTORS

The hormonal system (also called the endocrine system) is made up of glands such as the thyroid, ovaries, and testes. These glands secrete hormones (estrogens, testosterone, insulin, etc.) that are released into the bloodstream and play essential roles in several bodily functions such as reproduction, blood sugar regulation, and fetal development. An endocrine disruptor is a chemical substance (or a mixture of chemical substances) that is not produced by the human body and interferes with the functioning of the hormonal system. Endocrine disruptors can act in different ways. They may block the action of a hormone by preventing it from acting on its target cells, mimic the action of a hormone and trigger inappropriate responses in the body, or disrupt the production, transport, elimination, or regulation of a hormone or its receptor. Finally, it appears that the effects caused by endocrine disruptors are not necessarily related to the dose received by a person. Thus, some effects may appear at low doses, decrease as doses increase, and then intensify again at even higher doses. This is the result of a non-monotonic dose-response relationship.

PROPANEDIOL

Propanediol is an organic chemical compound belonging to the diol family, also known as 1,3-propanediol. It is derived from plant-based sources and is considered a more natural alternative to propylene glycol. It is an ingredient known for its hydrating and emollient properties. It acts as an effective moisturizing agent, helping to maintain the skin’s water balance and prevent dehydration. It also provides emollient properties that leave the skin soft and smooth to the touch. It also serves as a solubiliser for certain ingredients that are difficult to dissolve in water, helping to create homogeneous and stable formulations in cosmetic products. It therefore helps improve product texture, making it softer, more slippery, and easier to apply on the skin, enhancing the sensory experience. Propanediol is also an ingredient that helps enhance skin penetration, allowing other ingredients to be better absorbed and act more effectively. It is also a humectant, meaning it attracts moisture from the environment to the skin, helping to maintain hydration and prevent dryness. You can find propanediol in La Lotion.

R

GINSENG ROOT

Ginseng root extract is known for its revitalising and strengthening properties. Rich in amino acids, it helps reinforce and tone the hair, restoring volume and vitality. By stimulating hair follicles and improving blood circulation in the scalp, it helps accelerate hair growth and reduce breakage. This action allows the hair to be better nourished and oxygenated, contributing to a fuller, healthier, and more radiant-looking head of hair. You can find ginseng root extract in Le Shampoing and Le Tonic.

MEADOWSWEET

Naturally rich, meadowsweet oil helps repair weakened skin. Valued for its hydrating properties and high resistance to oxidation, it helps preserve the quality and effectiveness of the formula over time.

S

GLASSWORT

Glasswort is a highly resilient coastal plant that grows in marine environments. It has refreshing and relipidating properties, helping to limit water evaporation and prevent skin dehydration. By retaining water within the cells of the epidermis, it boosts the skin’s natural hydration mechanisms for optimal moisture levels. Use it, Martin·e, and your skin will feel regenerated and plumped! Green glasswort is rich in provitamin A, vitamin C, magnesium, and zinc, giving it soothing and purifying properties. When it turns red, it becomes enriched with a rare polyphenol (epigallocatechin) known for its anti-aging and antioxidant benefits. You can find glasswort in Le Before.

SEBUM

Sebum, also known as “skin oil,” is produced by the sebaceous glands in the dermis. It is a mixture of complex lipids, including fatty acids, waxes, cholesterol, glycerides, and squalene. It is often targeted because it causes shine, especially in the T-zone (the central area of the face forming a “T”: forehead, nose, and chin). However, it protects the skin from external aggressors and dehydration while maintaining its suppleness, making it essential for healthy skin. It contributes to the hydrolipidic film, and a lack of sebum weakens the skin and can lead to dryness. Thanks to its barrier-protective role, sebum also has antibacterial properties. When the sebaceous glands become overactive and produce too much sebum, the skin experiences excess oil—this is known as seborrhea. This can lead to shine, enlarged pores, a rough skin texture, and even greasy hair. Seborrhea can be caused by multiple factors such as stress, smoking, hormonal contraception, pollution, puberty, or a diet that is too high in fat. When the composition of sebum is altered due to a deficiency in vitamin E, the skin enters a state called dysseborrhea. This alteration in sebum composition is a primary cause of acne. To help protect yourself from excess or imbalanced sebum, a few simple steps can be adopted: use gentle, non-stripping skincare products, maintain a healthier diet rich in vitamin E, protect your skin from the sun, and keep it well hydrated. Martine Skin products are designed to help regulate your sebum. Tip: use the cleanser every morning and evening. Its formula, enriched with zinc gluconate, will help you control excess sebum and leave your skin looking fresh and healthy.

SODIUM PCA

Sodium PCA is the sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA). PCA is naturally present in all living cells of the outer layers of the skin. It contains vitamins D and E and acts as a natural moisturizer and humectant. It traps water molecules and can retain up to 250 times its weight in water thanks to its high moisture-binding capacity. It is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to help restore damaged skin. You can find Sodium PCA in L’After.

SQUALANE (PLANT-DERIVED)

Among the ingredients used in skincare, squalane stands out as one of the most interesting and effective for dry skin. It is naturally present in the body, as it is one of the lipids produced by skin cells (representing between 14% and 16% of sebum), and it is colorless and odorless. Traditionally, in cosmetics, squalane was derived from shark liver oil. Today, most brands using this ingredient opt for a sustainable plant-based source, as it is naturally found in olive oil, wheat bran, and rice bran. At Martine Skin, we use plant-derived squalane sourced from olive oil. It has unique advantages compared to other traditional plant and mineral oils, including: • It has a soft, silky feel, is lightweight, and non-greasy • It mimics sebum to help prevent moisture loss and restore skin suppleness Squalane is an emollient that works like sebum to prevent moisture loss. Its antioxidant properties also help protect the skin from lipid peroxidation, a process that damages the epidermis and the inside of pores. Squalane also helps lubricate the skin and enhance comfort while preventing any greasy feeling. You can find plant-based squalane in Le Before, La Crème, L’After, and La Grasse Night.

T

GENTLE PLANT-DERIVED SURFACTANTS

Effective & gentle cleansing Derived from glycolipids and meadowsweet oil, these surfactants cleanse the skin gently without stripping it. They effectively remove makeup and impurities while respecting the skin barrier.

V

VITAMIN C

Vitamin C has many benefits for the skin and metabolism. It stimulates collagen synthesis and reduces melanin production (responsible for dark spots). It also protects the skin against free radicals. In addition, when combined with vitamin E, it has a powerful antioxidant action: it neutralizes free radicals caused by UV rays, stress, and pollution. After sun exposure, applying a product containing vitamin C helps repair the skin. Vitamin C is also a powerful anti-wrinkle active ingredient that helps brighten the complexion and improve skin texture.

VITAMIN E

Vitamin E is a powerful natural antioxidant that helps preserve plant oils and butters from rancidity. In addition to extending product shelf life, it has notable benefits for the skin: it is an excellent anti-aging active ingredient and is particularly effective for dry and mature skin, as well as in after-sun care. It protects the skin against the effects of free radicals and penetrates the skin’s layers, helping to regenerate damaged structures and hydrate the skin from within.

Z

ZINC GLUCONATE

Zinc gluconate is a zinc derivative in a form that can be absorbed by the skin. Naturally present in the human body, it has strong sebum-regulating and purifying properties, making it particularly suitable for oily skin. Zinc gluconate is anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and astringent. It also helps fight acne and mattify the skin by acting on several enzymes responsible for sebum production. You can find zinc gluconate in Le Nettoyant.