THE MARTINE GLOSSARY
A
HEXANOYL DIPEPTIDE-3 NORLEUCINE ACETATE
Hexanoyl dipeptide-3 norleucine acetate is a synthetic tripeptide (a group of three amino acid molecules) that boosts cell renewal. In powder form, it induces a gentle exfoliation that supports desquamation (the removal of the upper layers of the epidermis). As a result, hexanoyl acetate helps the skin regain its radiance and address signs of aging such as wrinkles and fine lines.
You can find it in L’After.
CITRIC ACID
Citric acid is part of the AHA family. It is derived from citrus fruits, mainly lime, orange, lemon, and grapefruit. It is highly effective on the skin as it is rich in vitamin C and antioxidants. A natural preservative, citric acid offers many benefits for all skin types. It is mainly used as an exfoliating agent, as its acidic nature promotes exfoliation and skin purification. Its use helps remove dead skin cells. In addition, citric acid helps cleanse pores and soften the skin.
Citric acid can also help regulate the skin’s pH level, supporting the restoration of the skin barrier.
You can find citric acid in La Crème, L’Acide, L’After, La Grasse Night, and Le Nettoyant.
HYALURONIC ACID
Hyaluronic acid is a substance naturally present in the skin. It is known for its humectant power: it can attract and retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water, giving the skin a plump and supple appearance. It is beneficial for all skin types, but especially for Martin·e with dry and/or dehydrated skin. Hyaluronic acid is particularly useful in slowing down skin aging.
Indeed, as we age, the skin loses its ability to regulate its water balance, leading to a loss of firmness and elasticity. Hyaluronic acid is closely related to sodium hyaluronate, the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, which has the same properties but is absorbed even more easily by the skin thanks to its lower molecular weight. Sodium hyaluronate acts as a lubricant that hydrates the various tissues of the body.
You can find hyaluronic acid in the form of sodium hyaluronate in La Crème and Le Nettoyant.
LACTOBIONIC ACID
Lactobionic acid is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA). It is highly hygroscopic, meaning it can retain large amounts of water. It therefore has excellent long-term hydrating properties.
When applied to the skin, it exfoliates dead cells and tightens pores. This desquamation helps other skincare products penetrate deeper into the layers of the epidermis while making the skin more even and radiant. Known for their hydrating and soothing effects, PHAs are considered gentler than AHAs (due to their higher molecular weight) and are suitable for more sensitive skin.
You can find lactobionic acid in L’Acide.
LEVULINIC ACID
Levulinic acid is of natural origin and acts as a gentle preservative in cosmetic formulations. This organic acid, derived from the degradation of cellulose (one of the structural components of plant cells and tissues), is known for its antibacterial properties without altering the formula in which it is used: its pH, colour, or natural ingredients.
POLYGLUTAMIC ACID
Polyglutamic acid is a natural active ingredient derived from the polymerisation of glutamic acid. It is extracted from the fermentation of soybeans. This multifunctional peptide is known to retain four to five times more water than hyaluronic acid. It works well in combination with vitamin C and is highly effective on dry to dehydrated skin.
Previously used in medicine to support wound healing, polyglutamic acid also acts on immediate hydration and long-term water retention in the tissues. It helps fight signs of aging by giving the skin a plumped and smoothed appearance.
AHA, PHA & BHA
AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids), PHAs (poly-hydroxy acids), and BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids) are chemical exfoliants used to make the skin smoother and more radiant. Each of these acids is better suited to certain skin types than others.
Here’s a clearer breakdown for you, Martin·e:
AHAs are water-soluble acids and are recommended for dry skin due to their surface exfoliating action while helping maintain skin hydration. Several AHAs are used in Martine Skin products:
Lactic acid is obtained through the fermentation of milk and certain fruits. It has keratolytic properties (meaning it can dissolve keratin, the main protein in the outer layer of the epidermis) and helps improve the skin’s natural moisturizing factor. It is slightly less abrasive than glycolic acid and therefore better tolerated by the skin. It is found in Le Nettoyant, L’Acide, L’After, and L’Enzyme.
Glycolic acid (derived from sugar cane) has a strong exfoliating effect on the upper layers of the epidermis as well as astringent and pore-cleansing properties. By stimulating cell renewal and hyaluronic acid synthesis, it also has a hydrating effect. It is found in Le Nettoyant, L’After, and L’Enzyme.
Mandelic acid, derived from almonds, stimulates sebum production. It is therefore particularly interesting for dry skin. It is found in Le Nettoyant and L’Enzyme.
PHAs are ideal for sensitive and reactive skin that requires gentle exfoliation. Due to their larger molecular size compared to AHAs and BHAs, they penetrate less deeply into the skin and are better suited for atopic skin. They are also known for their hydrating and soothing effects. The three main PHAs used in cosmetics are gluconolactone (an antioxidant that effectively fights inflammation and can be found in our night serum L’After), galactose, known to stimulate collagen production, and lactobionic acid, which has hydrating properties.
Unlike AHAs, BHAs act on the skin’s surface as well as inside the pores. The main BHA used in skincare is salicylic acid. This active ingredient is particularly beneficial for oily, blemish-prone skin due to its antiseptic action, which helps prevent the growth and spread of fungi, viruses, and bacteria. It also has keratolytic and purifying effects, helping to remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface.
ALLANTOIN
Allantoin is an active ingredient with regenerating and healing properties. It helps maintain the skin’s hydrolipidic film, leaving the skin soft and supple. Its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties make it ideal for calming skin irritation.
It is suitable for all skin types, especially sensitive, irritated skin, skin damaged by sun exposure, oily skin, and blemish-prone skin. Allantoin also has a trophic cellular action, meaning it supports healthy cell growth.
This active ingredient has an excellent toxicological profile, as it is neither irritating nor toxic. It also helps regenerate damaged tissues and speeds up skin healing.
You can find allantoin in La Grasse Night.
ALOE VERA
Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) is a plant from the lily family. Its pulp has been used for its medicinal and cosmetic properties for many years. Rich in trace elements, vitamins, and amino acids, aloe vera is excellent for the skin.
Its hydrating power helps compensate for the natural evaporation of water from the skin and helps maintain skin moisture. With its soothing function, aloe vera relieves irritation and itching. It also has a repairing effect on redness-prone skin as well as a purifying action that helps reduce imperfections and cleanse the skin. In addition, aloe vera has properties that help prevent hyperpigmentation.
By forming a protective film on the epidermis, it helps shield the skin from external aggressors.
You can find aloe vera in La Source and L’After Show.
STARCH
PUDDING-TEXTURE GELLING AGENT
Starch gives the formula its bouncy, cushion-like gel texture, making it highly sensory. It provides a soft, velvety, and comfortable feel, turning makeup removal into a true moment of pleasure.
ANTIOXYDANT
An antioxidant is a barrier molecule whose role is to inhibit (reduce or prevent) reactions of a product when it comes into contact with oxygen, thereby preventing oxidation and rancidity. In cosmetics, antioxidants are used for two main reasons: to help the skin fight free radicals by minimising cell oxidation that leads to premature skin aging, and to protect product formulas from oxidation.
Did you know, Martin·e, that there are many different antioxidant agents? Their origin can be plant-based, synthetic, or biotechnological. In addition, all plant oils contain antioxidants. Certain vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C (ascorbic acid and ingredients containing the word “ascorbate”), and vitamin E (including tocopherol and ingredients containing the word “tocopheryl”) have strong antioxidant properties.
ARNICA
Arnica, more precisely the species Arnica montana, is one of the most widely used plants in the history of medicine.
Very common in phytotherapy and homeopathy, it is known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and analgesic properties.
Often applied to bruises, contusions, or muscle pain, in cosmetics it helps comfort irritated and damaged skin.
B
BAKUCHIOL
SHEA BUTTER
MANGO BUTTER
BIODINE
BIOFERM DRAGON BLOOD
C
CHONDRUS CRISPUS
COLLAGEN
Collagen is a naturally occurring protein used in the cosmetics industry for decades. It is the main component of connective tissue and the most abundant protein in the body. It contributes to skin firmness, strength, and elasticity—all things we love, Martin·e.
Collagen production decreases from the age of 25 due to the drying out of fibroblasts that produce it, and the first signs of skin aging then appear on the face. Improving collagen production strengthens the skin while helping it retain moisture more effectively. Collagen-boosting ingredients are mainly exfoliating or keratolytic actives such as retinol, vitamin C, and glycolic, lactic, malic, tart, or citric acids. These actives strongly stimulate fibroblasts, thereby increasing collagen synthesis and production.
To preserve your skin’s youthfulness, Martin·e, use L’After and L’Acide in your routine: they are rich in collagen boosters and will help you maintain radiant, plump-looking skin.